Washington: San Juan Islands Biking

Day 1

On the first day of the trip, meet your Backroads Trip Leaders (the folks wearing Backroads T-shirts) at 12:30 p.m. at the Channel Lodge in La Conner. Alternatively, you can meet a leader at the Farmhouse Restaurant at 12:10 p.m. and take the Backroads shuttle to the Channel Lodge. Please arrive dressed to ride with your rain jacket handy or have your biking clothes and rain gear packed in a separate bag.

Skagit Valley Route 14 Miles
Longer Option: 22 Miles

After meeting we get acquainted over a picnic lunch on the back porch of the Channel Lodge, which offers sweeping views of the Swinomish Channel. Then your Trip Leaders fit your bike and give a brief talk on biking techniques and safety before sending you off on a carefree ride through the Skagit Valley. The area is famous for its tulip and daffodil cultivation—bulbs are even exported to Holland. Enjoy the scenery (and the only flat terrain of the week!) of colorful old barns, bean and potato fields, and farmhouse porches dotted with overflowing flower baskets. Feel free to repeat the loop for some additional miles or take it easy and explore La Conner, a charming fishing village with a relaxed country feel.

Tonight we gather for a wine reception at Nell Thorn restaurant before dining on local specialties—be sure to sample the fresh homemade bread.

Lodging: Channel Lodge

Day 2

Anacortes Ferry Route 18 Miles
Longer Option: Washington Park 22 Miles
Ferry to Orcas Island 1½ Hours
Eastsound Route 11 Miles
Longer Option: North Beach Loop 16 Miles

Fuel up at breakfast for your first full day of riding in the San Juans. Pedal out of La Conner and across the Rainbow Bridge over the Swinomish Channel to Fidalgo Island. Continue over large rolling hills through the Swinomish Indian Reservation, around quiet coves and eventually to the Anacortes ferry terminal. To add a few more miles, ride around Washington Park, a hilly four-mile loop with terrific views of the Olympic Mountains and the islands to the west. Once aboard the ferry we head to Orcas Island—the most mountainous of the San Juan archipelago—which greets us with rocky shores, dense forests, rural valleys and some of the most challenging terrain of the trip.

We have all afternoon to get to the seaside hamlet of Eastsound, so whether you pedal up the hills or use your 28th gear (that is, walking your bike), you’re sure to enjoy the beautiful vistas at every turn. Of course, the van is there to offer a lift if you want it. Along the way, stop in at Orcas Island Pottery, a popular place for one-of-a-kind pieces made by local artists. Nestled among Douglas firs and western red cedars on the edge of a cliff overlooking President’s Channel, the studio grounds serve as a unique ―showroom‖ for the pottery.

Upon reaching Eastsound, settle into the spacious suites of the Outlook Inn, our home for the next two nights, or continue riding to the northern tip of Orcas for views of Sucia Island and Canada. You’ll have time to check out the town’s art shops and galleries, visit the Orcas Island Historical Museum, or treat yourself to a well-deserved massage. (Spa services are not included in the trip price, and reservations should be made in advance. See ―During Your Trip‖ for details.) The inn’s New Leaf Café hosts us tonight for an indulgent meal created from organic produce and fresh seafood.

Lodging: Outlook Inn

Day 3

Moran State Park Route 9 Miles
Mount Constitution Hike 4.5 Miles (2,100-foot elevation gain)
or Mount Constitution Biking Route 11 Miles (2,100-foot elevation gain)
Optional Doe Bay Route 16 Miles
Shorter Option: Olga Artworks 6 Miles
Longer Option: Obstruction Pass 22 Miles
Optional Cascade Lake Walk 3 Miles

After a hot breakfast at the New Leaf Café, bike along Eastsound and tackle a steep one-mile ascent to Moran State Park. A nature lover’s paradise, the park consists of 5,000 wooded acres, five freshwater lakes, 30 miles of hiking trails, four waterfalls and Mount Constitution, the San Juans’ highest peak at 2,409 feet. Take a breather and decide how to explore this beautiful park. Only the most enthusiastic cyclists will likely enjoy the bike ride to the summit of Mount Constitution, a very challenging 2,100-foot climb in less than six miles. If that doesn’t interest you, there’s a fantastic hike to the top through a dense forest of towering cedar and fir trees. At the lookout tower, built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, a clear day reveals a breathtaking panorama of Canada’s coastal mountains, snow-covered Mount Baker, the Olympic Peninsula and the islands of Puget Sound.

A quick van ride (or even quicker bike ride if you rode up) takes you to Cascade Lake, where we enjoy a picnic, followed perhaps by a swim or well-earned doze in the sun. If you’re feeling energetic, ride the hilly but picturesque route to Doe Bay. Along the way, stop by Olga Artworks, where you can buy local crafts, from pottery to paintings. Or visit the attached Café Olga to satisfy your sweet tooth with a homemade cobbler or an espresso! If you’d prefer, hike the level trail around Cascade Lake or bike the five miles back to the hotel to relax and further explore Eastsound. You even have time for a spa treatment (see ―During Your Trip‖ for more details).

This evening a special dining event awaits us at Red Rabbit Farm. Learn some culinary magic at the hands of chef Christina Orchid during a unique farm-to-table dinner starring fresh meats and produce.

Lodging: Outlook Inn

Day 4

Orcas Village Route 12 Miles (1,040-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Deer Harbor 20 Miles (1,200-foot elevation gain)
Wildlife-Watching Cruise to San Juan Island 4 Hours

This morning we bike along the edge of the Turtleback Mountains to explore the west arm of Orcas Island. A challenging climb up Enchanted Forest Road, as beautiful as the name implies, leads to a wonderful downhill through thick forest of Douglas fir and western red cedar trees. Head down to Deer Harbor on the west side of the island for yet another stunning water view. Continuing to Orcas Village, tackle several climbs, spurred on by thoughts of the delicious barbecue lunch that awaits in the English garden of the historic Orcas Hotel, listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

After lunch we board our chartered boat for a scenic wildlife cruise. As we enter the orcas’ habitat, a resident naturalist tells us more about these magnificent animals, as well as other wildlife we’re likely to see, including seals, porpoises, great blue herons and bald eagles. With three resident pods of orcas in the area and constant communication with other tracking boats, we have an excellent chance of a sighting. Whether or not we see them, the journey itself is well worth it. We come ashore in San Juan Island’s Friday Harbor, which, according to local legend, got its name when a passenger aboard a survey boat yelled to someone on shore, ―What bay is this?‖ Thinking he had been asked what day it was, the islander yelled back, ―It’s Friday!‖

After settling in at Friday Harbor House, you can survey the fabled harbor from your own private whirlpool tub. You’re on your own for dinner in Friday Harbor; your leaders will be happy to recommend their favorite dining spots.

Lodging: Friday Harbor House

Day 5

Cattle Point View Route 21 Miles with Shuttle (1,000-foot elevation gain)
Longer Options: Roche Harbor 31 Miles with Shuttle (1,700-foot elevation gain);
Friday Harbor 41 Miles (1,900-foot elevation gain);
or Friday Harbor via Pear Point 50 Miles (2,000-foot elevation gain)

Today’s ride through the pastoral and less forested terrain of San Juan Island still offers those familiar hills—they’re just not quite as large as those you encountered on Orcas. We head south to Cattle Point Lookout, where the sight of the massive Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Olympic Peninsula makes you feel as though you’ve reached the end of the world. Retracing just a bit, you’ll pass by aptly named False Bay, whose shallow bottom is exposed for hundreds of yards during low tide. Wind your way to the Pelindaba Lavender Farm and stop to marvel at the lavender fields and array of lavender products, from teas, soaps and candles to fire-starters. Leaving Pelindaba, check out the view of the Haro Strait and Vancouver Island from under the shade of a red-barked madrona tree.

At Lime Kiln State Park, follow the short path to the water’s edge to the only official whale-watching park in the United States. Orca sightings are not uncommon here at some of their favorite fishing grounds. Grab some lunch before continuing to Roche Harbor, where you’ll take on the hilliest section of the route. Or hop in the van to avoid ten miles of climbing. Once you reach the harbor, you may choose to go on a guided sea-kayaking excursion. Paddling through protected waterways, peaceful inlets and vast kelp beds around Pearl, Henry and Posey Islands, look for harbor seals, otters, bald eagles and a variety of seabirds. (Sea kayaking is not included in the trip price and is dependent on the weather.) If you choose not to kayak, head back to Friday Harbor on a ten-mile spin over a few rises or an even longer route via Pear Point for a fantastic view of the harbor. The rest of the afternoon is yours to relax at the hotel or spend time in town visiting shops, art galleries and the Whale Museum.

Tonight we celebrate our journey with a farewell dinner at Friday Harbor House. Enjoy innovative Pacific Northwest cuisine while taking in the sunset view over the harbor.

Lodging: Friday Harbor House

Day 6

Ferry to Lopez Island 1½ Hours
Lopez Village Route 20 Miles with Shuttle
Shorter Option: Fisherman’s Bay 14 Miles with Shuttle
Longer Options: Bayshore 23 Miles with Shuttle
or Lopez Ferry Terminal 28 Miles
Ferry to Anacortes 45 Minutes

This morning we ferry to tranquil Lopez Island. Known for its rural beauty and many protected harbors, Lopez is a bicyclist’s paradise with its rolling terrain and friendly locals. Pedal to Shark Reef, then take a short hike for views of the Olympic Mountains and the fast-moving current between Lopez and San Juan Islands. Back on your bike, head straight for Lopez Village or take a scenic spin out Bayshore Road to soak in the beautiful vista of the sound. Whichever option you choose, make sure to save time to sample some sweet treats at Holly B’s Bakery or the Just Heavenly Fudge Shop, home to Lopez Island Creamery Ice Cream.

We reconvene midday for a tasty lunch of local specialties in Lopez Village. From here you can bike or shuttle to the ferry terminal to board a ferry to Anacortes, where our trip ends.