Dalmatian Coast Biking

Day 1

On the first day of the trip, meet your Backroads leaders (the folks wearing Backroads T-shirts) at 9 a.m. in the lobby of Hotel Park in Split. Please arrive dressed to ride, or bring your bike clothes in a separate small daypack (along with your bathing suit) and change on the boat to Brac Island.

Boat to Milna, Brac Island 1 Hour
Milna Loop 13 Miles with Shuttle (980-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: 36 Miles (2,500-foot elevation gain)

Welcome to Croatia! After meeting in Split we take a boat to the fishing and yachting town of Milna on Brac Island. Brac (pronounced BRATCH), whose name means “the big one,” is the largest island of Dalmatia. And with its arid scrub-covered uplands, cypress forests, orange and olive trees, drystone walls and famed cheeses, it‟s also the most Mediterranean of the archipelago. Since ancient Greek times, Brac has been renowned for its milky-white marble, used in the construction of Diocletian‟s palace in Split, numerous buildings in Venice and reputedly the White House in Washington, D.C.

Before heading out on today‟s route, your Backroads leaders fit your bike and give a brief talk on biking techniques and safety. Then get your blood pumping with a mile-long climb that leads you to beautiful riding through picturesque stone villages perched on hillsides. Enjoy vistas of the mainland, old olive groves, ancient crumbling stone walls and white woolly sheep. You‟ll also enjoy your first taste of some big hills! Then turn slightly inland and tackle a few ascents before descending back into Milna for a late picnic lunch and refreshing swim.

This afternoon you‟ll want to listen to your legs when deciding whether to shuttle or bike to tonight‟s hotel, the Palaca Deškovic, a refurbished cultural monument located on one of the many bays on the island‟s north coast. This evening we gather for a festive welcome dinner of slow-cooked regional dishes.

Lodging: Palaca Deškovic

Day 2

Bol Route 31 Miles with Shuttle (3,500-foot elevation gain)
Shorter Option: 18 Miles (130-foot elevation gain)
Boat to Hvar Island 1 Hour
Shuttle to Hotel 45 Minutes
Shuttle to/from Milna, Hvar 45 Minutes Round-Trip

Today‟s route leaves from Pucisca, following the contours of the coast past Lovrecina Beach. The next leg of the ride serves up the single most difficult series of climbs on the trip, so if you‟re feeling extra ambitious, keep pushing onward and upward! You‟ll ascend straight to Skrip, the oldest village on the island, and on toward Vidova Gora. Continue past the turnoff to Vidova Gora (or take this detour to the top of the mountain—on a clear day the views are unbeatable!) before spinning through rolling hills and along a winding descent all the way into Bol.

Depending on when you arrive, you may have some time to walk around Bol. Stroll down the promenade to check out the famous Zlatni Rat beach and stop at a café to refuel with lunch and a refreshing drink. From Bol we boat to Hvar Island—the chicest and most popular destination of the southern Dalmatian archipelago—followed by a shuttle to our hotel for the next two nights, the spectacular Hotel Adriana. Its central location provides easy access to Hvar Town‟s attractions and bustling nightlife.

Tonight we‟re treated to a truly local experience in the Hvar Island town of Milna. Our friends Mate and Michaela invite us into their home for dinner, serving us fresh seasonal dishes they‟ve prepared from scratch. Weather permitting, we‟ll savor their home cooking outside among the olive trees.

Lodging: Hotel Adriana

Day 3

Stari Grad Route 26 Miles with Shuttle (1,400-foot elevation gain)
Shorter Option: Levanda 21 Miles with Shuttle (430-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: 38 Miles (2,740-foot elevation gain)

We devote ourselves to an in-depth exploration of Hvar Island today. A long thin piece of land, Hvar is filled with fragrant lavender, heather and pines, while ragged inlets lapped by translucent waters and a steep central limestone ridge add to the landscape‟s beauty. Our ride offers plunging views in both directions, with the panorama becoming increasingly dramatic during your ascent along Sveti Nikola, the limestone ridge stretching across the middle of the island. Pedal past ancient stone terraces topped by tiny plots of lavender, veggies, grape vines, fig trees and olive groves. After a long winding downhill, enjoy a stretch of mostly flat riding interspersed with some short steep climbs. If you like, take a breather in the quiet town of Vrboska to sip a coffee at a seaside café. Then continue winding along narrow, lightly trafficked roads to the sleepy Greek-settled town of Stari Grad, whose picturesque promenade provides a perfect end to our ride.

We enjoy a light lunch with our friends Vinko and Darinka Lupi, who open their home to us and share the bounty from their garden including their homemade wines and grappa! Their family has been making wines for generations and you can explore their home and beautiful garden. After having your fill, tackle the hills back to Hvar or take a seat in the van.

Later this afternoon in Hvar Town, spend time people-watching in the central square, which is paved entirely with marble and is the largest in Dalmatia. Other architectural gems worth seeing are the 17th-century Venetian arsenal, housing a beautiful theater (the first in Europe to be accessible to the public), and the stunning 15th-century Franciscan monastery with gardens overlooking the sea. This evening you‟re on your own for dinner in Hvar Town; your leaders are always happy to recommend the best restaurants for such local delights as mussels, fresh fish and risotto.

Lodging: Hotel Adriana

Day 4

Private Boat to Korcula Island 3 Hours
Brna Route 26 Miles (1,700-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Olive Grove 31 Miles (2,990-foot elevation gain)

Following breakfast we board a private boat for a scenic sail to Korcula (pronounced KOHR-choo-lah), an island dotted with vineyards, olive groves and forests of pine, oak and cypress. Kick back and enjoy our excursion—it‟s exhilarating to travel amid such beauty. We may even stop for a swim before our picnic lunch onboard.

Once we‟ve landed at the port of Vela Luka, jump on your bike and navigate through this charming port town. Then shift gears and head for a route that features alternating stretches of coastal riding and rolling hills. A two-mile climb provides stunning views of both sides of the island and, if that isn‟t enough, you‟re also rewarded with a winding three-mile descent! Cap off the ride with an easy seaside spin to our quiet waterfront abode, Hotel Feral. You can take a swim or relax on your room‟s balcony before we shuttle to a nearby restaurant for another feast of Croatian cuisine.

Lodging: Hotel Feral

Day 5

Korcula Town Route 20 Miles (1,070-foot elevation gain)
Ferry & Bus to Dubrovnik 2½ Hours

There‟s nothing like starting the morning with a hearty breakfast and a big long climb! Leaving the hotel, get your heart pumping on an invigorating ascent with a side of stunning sea views. Not to worry—upon reaching the top you‟re in the clear, so settle in for a nice downhill cruise into Korcula Town, the island‟s elegant centerpiece and a reputed birthplace of Marco Polo. Huddled around St. Mark‟s Cathedral, the atmospheric old quarter is known for its narrow rib-like lanes that branch off the “spine” of the main street—a clever layout designed to protect locals from the sun and wind. The Venetians came here in the 10th century and ruled on and off for more than 800 years, leaving a distinct mark on the town‟s culture and architecture. Today Korcula Town is a trove of rough-hewn stone Gothic and Renaissance palaces, courtyards, churches and graceful arched bridges. Korcula‟s thick walls and imposing towers—once a defense against passing pirates and other enemies—date from the 14th century.

After exploring town on your own and refueling with lunch, meet up with the group on the waterfront, where we board a ferry for a short cruise across the channel to the Peljesac Peninsula. After disembarking we take a scenic bus ride to Dubrovnik and our home for the night, the Imperial Hilton, located just outside the old town‟s gates. The sunlit indoor pool may look inviting, or you can just soak up the striking views of your surroundings before we head out for this evening‟s farewell dinner in the city‟s historic center.

Lodging: Imperial Hilton

Day 6

Guided Walk on Dubrovnik’s City Wall 45 Minutes

This morning we take a guided walking tour atop Dubrovnik‟s ancient city wall, an enormous defensive structure replete with turrets and towers. Enjoy commanding vistas of the old town, a World Heritage site, the harbor and the Adriatic Sea. Our tour—and our trip—end back at the hotel, where we say our goodbyes.