Nova Scotia Biking

Day 1

Meet your Backroads Trip Leaders (the folks wearing Backroads T-shirts) at 8:30 a.m. in the lobby of the Delta Halifax Hotel in Halifax, Nova Scotia. Please bring a daypack containing your rain gear and biking clothes; there are facilities where you can change clothes at our lunch spot.

Shuttle to Gold River 1½ Hours
Lunenburg & Blue Rocks Route 35 Miles (330-foot elevation gain)
Shorter Option: Mahone Bay 26 Miles with Shuttle (430-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Second Peninsula 41 Miles (440-foot elevation gain)

Welcome to Nova Scotia! After meeting in Halifax, we shuttle to the seaside village of Gold River, where your Backroads leaders fit your bike and give a brief talk on biking techniques and safety. Then set off along quiet roads to the famous Lighthouse Route. This coastal ride takes you past beautiful summer homes, colorful cottages, weathered docks and sleepy fishing villages, such as charming Mahone Bay—the perfect place for a Backroads picnic. If you’re a photography buff, don’t miss a shot of the town’s famous ―three churches,‖ which stand in a row by the water’s edge and can be seen from miles away. Feel free to linger a bit in Mahone Bay, as it offers many artisan shops and cozy cafés to enjoy before you continue to the town of Lunenburg, a World Heritage Site. Those looking for a few extra miles can head along a hilly section of the Lighthouse Route to oft-photographed Blue Rocks, an idyllic fishing community that has attracted artists since the 1940s.

Lunenburg is widely considered to be the best surviving example of a planned British colonial settlement in North America. As you ride (or shuttle) into town, you can’t help but be cheered by its vibrantly colored historic buildings with the beautiful bay providing the backdrop—it’s surely one of the most postcard-perfect towns in Canada. Settle into our hotel for the night, the Lunenburg Arms, a boutique-style inn occupying a restored historic building overlooking the harbor.

Tonight we gather for a reception on the inn’s patio (weather permitting) before adjourning to the dining room for dinner.

Lodging: Lunenburg Arms

Day 2

White Point Route 58 Miles(480-foot elevation gain)
Shorter Options: 23 Miles (450-foot elevation gain) or Hirtles Beach 46 Miles (480-foot elevation gain)

Today’s ride features a breathtaking panorama, including the LaHave Islands and possible seal sightings. Begin by biking to the LaHave Ferry and take the short cable ferry ride across the river. After reaching the other side, you may want to stop for a sweet treat at LaHave Bakery before hopping back on your bike. Then head out on a spin along peaceful roads through a string of villages, watching for gulls, ducks, geese and sandpipers, and some of the 150 lighthouses that dot the province’s coastline.

After passing another quintessential beacon, the Western Head Lighthouse, you’ll encounter some traffic en route to White Point Beach Resort. When its doors opened in 1928, it offered only a few beach cabins and a handful of rooms in its lodge. Though it has expanded over the years, the hotel maintains its charming rustic feel. Tonight we sit down to a delicious dinner at the Quarterdeck Grill.

Lodging: White Point Beach Resort

Day 3

Shuttle to Kejimkujik National Park 1 Hour
Annapolis Royal Route 46 Miles (850-foot elevation gain)
Shorter Option: 31 Miles with Shuttle (800-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: White Point Start 76 Miles (1,000-foot elevation gain)

After breakfast we shuttle to Kejimkujik (Keji) National Park, where we hop on our bikes and begin today’s ride to Annapolis Royal, the birthplace of Canada and former capital of Nova Scotia. Make your way along a rolling downhill route that leads through inland coastal tundra forests and wooded groves, past secluded freshwater lakes and coves.

In the afternoon you can shuttle or pedal to Port Royal, a reconstruction of the first permanent European settlement in Canada. The settlement was established in 1605 as the site of a fur-trading colony by French explorer Samuel de Champlain. In order to rebuild the settlement as accurately as possible, designers studied Champlain’s detailed illustrations and descriptions, as well as popular building techniques being used in France at the time. When you’re ready to return to the 21st century, head back to Annapolis Royal by bike or shuttle and settle in at the Hillsdale House Inn, a lovely bed-and-breakfast set on 12 acres of landscaped lawns and gardens. The rest of the afternoon and evening are yours to explore Annapolis Royal and enjoy dinner on your own. Later tonight, you won’t want to miss the graveyard tour with Alan Melanson, a 10th generation Acadian. Alan’s pride and passion for Acadian history really shows, and your time with him is sure to be one of the highlights of the trip.

Lodging: Hillsdale House Inn

Day 4

Bear River Loop 38 Miles (580-foot elevation gain)
Shorter Option: Bear River Direct 32 Miles (560-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Bear River Loop 49 Miles (660-foot elevation gain)

Today’s route follows a beautiful tidal estuary through a lush valley to the picturesque village of Bear Valley. Many of the buildings sit above the water on stilts—an innovation in architecture on the part of early builders. Though tiny (only 1,000 strong), Bear River boasts a thriving artists’ community. There are several shops and art galleries vying for your attention, so feel free to give your shopping muscles a workout before our picnic at picturesque Bear River Vineyards. In the afternoon, you can shuttle to the hotel or continue pedaling.

In Annapolis Royal, there’s time to explore and check out the town’s many attractions, including Fort Anne, Canada’s oldest national historic site. Fort Anne played an important role in Canadian history, as the site of many violent conflicts between the British and French over control of North America, and as the center for changing relations between the Mi’kmaq, the Acadians and the British during the 17th and 18th centuries. Take in the wide-open vista of the stunning Annapolis Basin and tour the museum. You can also enjoy the tranquility, colorful bursts of horticultural delights and the sound of music floating on the breeze at Annapolis Royal’s Historic Gardens. Set on 17 beautifully landscaped acres overlooking the tidal river valley, the gardens are a treat for the senses, but you can also learn about Nova Scotia through the historically themed areas. If on the other hand, you’re looking for more mileage this afternoon, continue on the longer option, which leads you on a loop through the village of Round Hill. In the evening we reconvene for dinner at the inn.

Lodging: Hillsdale House Inn

Day 5

Bay of Fundy Route 80 Miles (2,800-foot elevation gain)
Shorter Option: Wolfville 41 Miles with Shuttle (1,960-foot elevation gain)

Enjoy a challenging and beautiful ride on the Bay of Fundy, which offers some of the most splendid scenery and spectacular views in Nova Scotia. Pedal on bucolic roads that hug the water, then spin into the valley past farms, apple orchards and horses grazing in pastures. Take your pick of scenic spots to stop and eat your packed lunch, including the lovely seaside community of Margaretsville. The little Margaretsville Lighthouse, the only beacon in Nova Scotia sporting a black stripe, recently celebrated its 150th anniversary. From here climb in the Backroads van or continue on your bike through the Annapolis Valley to our final hotel, Victoria’s Historic Inn & Carriage House in Wolfville.

This evening it’s a short shuttle ride to award-winning Domaine de Grand Pré winery, whose grapes are specially developed for this maritime climate. After sampling some unique Nova Scotia varietals, chef Jason Lynch treats us to an exceptional meal of international dishes with a regional flair.

Lodging: Victoria’s Historic Inn & Carriage House

Day 6

Gaspereau Valley & Grande Pré Route 14 Miles (560-feet elevation gain)
Shuttle to Halifax 1½ Hours

Our final ride features views of Minas Basin and showcases Nova Scotia’s fascinating man-made dike system, salt marshes and mudflats. The landscape changes with the tide: when water rushes in from the Cornwallis River at high tide, the mudflats disappear. Pedal through the lush Gaspereau Valley past orchards and vineyards en route to Grand Pré National Historic Site, stopping at Gaspereau Winery for a tasting along the way.

The memorial at Grand Pré is dedicated to the heroic struggles of the Acadian settlers, driven from their homes and farms beginning in 1755 when their land was parceled to New England colonists. Henry Longfellow’s epic poem, Evangéline, immortalized the Acadians’ tragic fate and sparked Americans’ interest in visiting the area. A statue of Evangéline, as well as a memorial to Longfellow, stands in the lush 14-acre gardens. Visit the church to view exhibits, paintings and stained glass depicting Acadian history. Then stop by the interpretive center and check out a very interesting exhibit on the dike system. After walking around, we enjoy a picnic lunch on the grounds before shuttling to Halifax, where our Nova Scotia journey ends.