Argentina's Lake District Biking

Day 1

Meet your Backroads Trip Leaders (the folks wearing Backroads T-shirts) at 10:30 a.m. in the lobby of Hotel Cumbres Patagónicas in Puerto Varas, Chile. Please arrive dressed in your biking clothes and have your rain gear handy.

Frutillar Route 19 Miles with Shuttle

Bienvenidos a Chile! After meeting and getting acquainted, your Backroads Trip Leaders fit your bike and give a brief talk on biking techniques and safety. Then set out on a picturesque ride along quiet roads to Frutillar, a German town set on the banks of Lago Llanquihue. En route, take in the dramatic panorama created by the lake—Chile’s second largest—and surrounding snowcapped volcanoes. Once in Frutillar, you’ll see a lovely beach, interesting European-influenced architecture and expansive gardens highlighted by brilliant begonias.

Enjoy lunch, then hop in the van for a lift to Hotel Cumbres Patagónicas, our home for the first two nights. Spend the rest of the afternon relaxing in your well-appointed room, walking around the property or lounging in the hotel’s top-floor pool.

This evening we reconvene for a reception, followed by dinner at the hotel restaurant, which serves fantastic Chilean and international dishes. Afterward, consider doing a little stargazing—look for the Southern Cross and other celestial wonders sparkling in the sky before retiring to your room.

Lodging: Hotel Cumbres Patagónicas

Day 2

Ensenada Loop 25 Miles (800-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Saltos del Petrohué 50 Miles (1,800-foot elevation gain)

After breakfast spin alongside the lake toward Ensenada, the gateway to Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park. Despite its proximity to three active volcanoes (Osorno, Calbuco and Puntiagudo), Ensenada is peaceful and serene.

If you’re amped for more miles after lunch, continue on a scenic route along the Hueñu Hueñu and Petrohué Rivers to Saltos del Petrohué, an impressive chute-type waterfall that flows over basaltic lava deposited by Osorno.

Otherwise, feel free to pedal back to the hotel and unwind, perhaps with a massage or other spa treatment. Another great option to consider: an exciting Class III rafting excursion down the Río Petrohué. On a clear day you’ll be treated to views of all three volcanoes from your raft. Our local guides provide everything you’ll need for the trip, including shorty wet suits, booties, helmets and spray jackets/pants. (Please note that spa services and rafting are not included in the trip price and must be confirmed on Day 1 of the trip.)

We end the day with a gourmet feast of regional delicacies at a favorite local restaurant in the charming lakeside town of Puerto Varas.

Lodging: Hotel Cumbres Patagónicas

Day 3

Boat & Bus to Llao Llao, Argentina 11 Hours

Today we bid farewell to Chile and cross over the Andes into Argentina, weaving along the famous Cruce de Lagos route, which was taken in reverse by Che Guevara as chronicled in his renowned memoir, The Motorcycle Diaries. You can look forward to a series of boat and bus rides through lush forests, across emerald-colored lakes and over snowcapped mountains.

Our day begins with breakfast followed by a quick shuttle ride to the dock, where we embark on a scenic boat trip across Lago Todos los Santos. We then travel 17 miles by bus over the stunning Perez Rosales Pass for breathtaking views of the rugged terrain between Chile and Argentina. The impressive vista includes Mount Tronador (or ―Thundering Mountain‖), the highest peak in the region. Once we pass through Immigration and Customs in Argentina’s Nahuel Huapi National Park, it’s a short boat trip across Lago Frías to Puerto Alegre, then another brief bus ride (or if time allows, you can hike the two miles) to Puerto Blest.

The final leg of our journey takes us to Puerto Pañuelo in Llao Llao, Argentina, where we arrive at the magnificent Llao Llao Hotel & Resort. This National Historic Landmark enjoys remarkable views of shimmering Lago Nahuel Huapi, the jagged spires of Cerro Catedrál and the glaciers of Mount Tronador.

After the long trip, settle into your room and explore the resort. Dinner is at your leisure, either at the hotel’s Patagonia Café or in the comfort of your room. (Please note that room service gratuity is not included in the trip price.)

Lodging: Llao Llao Hotel & Resort

Day 4

Circuito Chico Biking Loop 17 Miles (1,100-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Chico Out-&-Back 33 Miles (2,200-foot elevation gain) or Cerro Llao Llao Lookout Hike 4.7 Miles (1,000-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Lago Perito Moreno 7.1 Miles (1,100-foot elevation gain)

With our late arrival yesterday, today’s ride will be your first chance to get a real sense of our spectacular surroundings. Bike a hilly paved route through forests of huge coihue trees and along ridgelines with vistas of the Cerros Tronador, Lopez Campanario and Capilla Mountains. En route you can choose from a variety of interesting excursions: take a scenic chairlift ride, tour a local microbrewery or enjoy a meat and cheese tasting at the original Ahumadero (or ―smokehouse‖) Familia Weiss. Your leaders will also introduce you to máte (pronounced mah-tay), Argentina’s national drink.

If you’d prefer to hike today, set out on a self-guided trek from Llao Llao beginning with a short climb through bamboo and monkey-puzzle trees to a rocky lookout. Enjoy the panoramic views before continuing toward Lago Perito Moreno, following the shoreline and looping back to the hotel.

This evening we devote ourselves to el paseo, el ocho, el enganche and other steps as we learn how to dance the sultry Tango, the national dance of Argentina. After working up an appetite, we move to the hotel’s elegant Los Césares restaurant for dinner.

Lodging: Llao Llao Hotel & Resort

Day 5

Boat to Parque Nacional de Los Arrayanes 1½ Hours
Los Arrayanes Single-Track Biking Route 13 Miles (1,600-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Bahía Manzano 20 Miles (1,900-foot elevation gain) or Los Arrayanes Hike 8 Miles (1,600-foot elevation gain)

A morning boat ride takes us north across Lago Nahuel Huapi to the southern tip of the Quetrihué Peninsula and Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes. (Arrayanes are rare native trees with peeling reddish-brown bark.)

We’re joined by a local expert on the trails in this area and together we take off on a challenging bike ride through the park. Navigating today’s hard-packed single-track dirt trails is sure to be an exciting journey—be prepared for some serious technical riding, which may include carrying your bike over large tree roots and trunks. If you’d prefer to experience these trails at a more relaxed pace, you also have the option to hike this route.

Whatever your mode of transportation, you will conquer a steep hill at the end (expect to walk your bike part of the way) and a similar downhill grade. Your reward comes when you arrive in charming Villa La Angostura for lunch on your own. The remainder of the afternoon is yours to explore this popular yet laid-back resort town. Opt to ride or shuttle the remainder of the way to our hotel on the outskirts of Villa La Angostura.

This evening we settle into Sol Arrayan, a lakeside retreat with unsurpassed views from every room. Take a dip in the heated swimming pool or marvel at the alpine vistas from the sauna before heading to the dining room for a delicious dinner of regional fare. Afterward, take a moonlit stroll along Nahuel Huapi Lake’s pristine shoreline, mere steps away.

Lodging: Sol Arrayan Hotel & Spa

Day 6

Cerro Bayo Biking Route 28 Miles (1,100-foot elevation gain)
Camino Viejo Biking Route 18 Miles (500-foot elevation gain)
Cerro Bayo Hike 4 Miles (600-foot elevation gain)

This morning you won’t want to miss the vistas from the top of the Cerro Bayo Ski Resort. Ride up dirt roads with occasional miradores (viewpoints) overlooking the lake, then make a quick side trip to the Río Bonito waterfall before arriving at the base of the ski area. From here you can take a round-trip chairlift ride for terrific views or, for a bigger thrill, take your bike with you on the chairlift and spin down to the resort base.

Want to give your legs a rest this morning? Consider trading your pedals for paddles and launch a ―ducky‖ (inflatable kayak) out onto the water. Glide across the serene surface of Lago Espejo (or ―Mirror Lake‖), which provides a stunning reflection of the surrounding mountains and trees. (This activity is not included in the trip price.)

We reconvene midday for a picnic lunch on the shore of gorgeous Lago Correntoso. Afterward pedal toward Villa la Angostura along a dirt single-track path called El Camino Viejo (or ―Old Road‖). This was the original route connecting Chile and Argentina. After conquering a significant hill, you’re treated to a gentle downhill for most of the ride back to town.

Take it easy this afternoon: wander around town, indulge in a spa treatment (not included in the trip price) or retire to your room for a siesta. A tasty dinner awaits at the hotel restaurant.

Lodging: Sol Arrayan Hotel & Spa

Day 7

Siete Lagos Metric Century Ride 64 Miles with Shuttle (3,900-foot elevation gain)
Shorter (All Paved) Option: 33 Miles with Shuttle (2,500-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: 73 Miles (4,000-foot elevation gain)

Dig into a hearty breakfast to prepare for the most challenging and rewarding ride of the trip—get ready for hills! After a short shuttle to our starting point, we head north into the Region of Seven Lakes, where you’ll find some of the most glorious scenery in all of Argentina. Stands of ancient coihue trees line our route near the Chile-Argentina border and across the Continental Divide. A hilly bumpy dirt road meanders between Lagos Espejo, Correntoso, Hermoso and Falkner, while the Andes rise majestically in the background. (You’re welcome to shuttle over the unpaved portion of the route.)

Refuel with your packed lunch whenever and wherever you like—with so many lakes, rivers and streams along the way, you have a multitude of scenic spots to choose from. By the time you arrive at Lago Lacar and the charming hamlet of San Martín de los Andes, you’ve reached the home stretch. Pedaling the final leg to our hotel, you’ll no doubt feel a great sense of accomplishment. Give yourself a pat on the back—you deserve it!

After settling into your room at the welcoming Antares Patgaonia Suites, relax in the heated swimming pool or whirlpool. Then join the group for a rousing farewell dinner at a favorite local restaurant.

Lodging: Antares Patagonia Suites

Day 8

Shuttle to San Carlos de Bariloche 3½ Hours

After an early breakfast, we say our goodbyes before shuttling to San Carlos de Bariloche.