Spain Walking & Hiking

Day 1

Meet your Trip Leaders (the folks wearing Backroads T-shirts) at 10:30 a.m. in front of the França train station (Estació de França) in Barcelona, Spain. Please arrive dressed in your walking clothes with your daypack and rain gear.

Shuttle to Peratallada 1¾ Hours
Mas Torrent Route 6.2 Miles (690-foot elevation gain)

¡Benvingut! After meeting in Barcelona, a vibrant city of bustling maze-like streets, intricate Gothic architecture and impressive museums, we shuttle toward the coast. Though Barcelona is Catalonia’s capital and its largest city, there is much more to this semi-autonomous region, and we’re off to explore it. With its distinct culture, laws, traditions, language and cuisine, Catalonia is like nowhere else in Spain!

We travel to the Baix Empordà, known as the ―region of coves.‖ With a great network of trails that pass from secluded bays to delightful woods and from bustling towns to tiny quiet villages, the Baix Empordà is ideal for hiking. Arriving in Peratallada, a medieval town with labyrinthine streets that wind around an imposing castle complete with watchtowers, we get better acquainted over lunch at El Pati. The town was named in honor of the perda tallada, or ―hewn stone,‖ from which its buildings were carved.

Afterward set off on foot into the green Empurdan countryside, dotted with farmhouses. As you follow paved and dirt roads, you’ll get a taste of rural life here. Take your time exploring the hamlet of Pals, whose Gothic Quarter is a delightful mix of stone arches, square towers and cobbled streets lined with flower-filled window boxes. There are shops to browse and cafés to enjoy.

Our destination today is Mas de Torrent Hotel & Spa, a former masia (country house) transformed into a luxury hotel by the Figueras family. After settling in we gather for a wine reception followed by dinner at the hotel.

Lodging: Mas de Torrent Hotel & Spa

Day 2

Tamariu Route 8.4 Miles (2,460-foot elevation gain; 2,510-foot elevation loss)
Shorter Option: Llafranc 5.6 Miles (1,840-foot elevation gain)

After breakfast we hop in the shuttle for a short ride to Platja Castell, where the Gavarres mountain range collapses dramatically into the sea. Embark on a dirt path shaded by holm oaks, corks and pine trees, and trace the dramatic coastline, punctuated by dreamlike cliffs and unspoiled coves. Be prepared for some steep sections and rocks and roots along the way—as well as archaeological treasures. On the rocky promontory of Agulla del Castell (or ―Needle of the Castle‖) are the partially excavated remains of a 6th-century B.C. Iberian settlement. Continue along the camins de ronda, or seaside walking paths, once used by smugglers to connect Costa Brava’s coves. You’ll go up steps, through tunnels and past incredible Mediterranean vistas.

You’re on your own for lunch today, and the picturesque fishing village of Calella de Palafrugell may be just the spot. You can also make the side trip (including a tough incline) to Cap Roig Botanical Garden, where multicolored native and exotic flower species bloom on terraces that descend from a hilltop castle to the sea, connected by winding staircases. If you’re not hungry yet, tackle the climb to Llafranc, where elegant homes cling to the forested hillside and luxury boats bob in the marina. In the distance is the Sant Sebastià lighthouse, which has the farthest-reaching light of any in Spain. Built in 1857, the lighthouse towers 550 feet above the sea and offers extraordinary views of the surrounding crescent bays. By the time you arrive at Tamariu Beach, one of the Costa Brava’s most sheltered, you may be ready to kick back on the sand. Spend the rest of the afternoon walking the promenade lined with tamarind trees (hence the town name), lazing in the sand or playing in the surf. Or perhaps you’d rather shuttle back to our hotel for some TLC at the decadent spa. (Please note that spa treatments are not included in the trip price. It’s a good idea to book your appointment in advance of the trip; see accommodation sidebar for the hotel contact information.)

This evening we shuttle from Mas de Torrent to Begur, a beautiful town capped with ruins of a medieval castle. Begur offers great shopping, pleasant strolling among Colonial-style buildings, and excellent restaurants. For dinner on your own, consider trying suquet, the local delectable seafood stew.

Lodging: Mas de Torrent Hotel & Spa

Day 3

Shuttle to Ribes de Freser 2½ Hours
Cog Train to Núria 40 Minutes
Eyne Route 8.1 Miles (2,460-foot elevation gain)
Shuttle to Bolvir 2 Hours

Getting an early start, we head for the high Pyrénées. Our drive takes us along a gorgeous route through the Garrotxa (a volcanic area whose name means ―rough land of bad tracks‖) to the Ripollès region. We’ll be hiking today in the remote Vall de Núria, a glacial valley in Girona province. There’s only one way to reach it—cog railway. (This means van support isn’t possible for this trek, but your leaders are always close by.) Climb aboard the train in Ribes de Freser and enjoy traveling through a spectacular canyon to the village of Queralbs. Once we’ve arrive, you can check out the 10th-century Romanesque shrine of Núria, where worshipers have come for more than 800 years. And it’s no wonder—encircled by breathtaking mountains, which reach nearly 10,000 feet in elevation, this protected space has a sacred feeling.

From the shrine, set off across grassy meadows, where cows may be grazing, and into the wide valley. A steeper ascent then leads to a crest with wonderful mountain views. Watch for chamois deer (locally called isards), marmots and other alpine wildlife. You never know what might show up, hoping to share some of your packed lunch! If the weather permits, climb all the way to the Col d’Eyne (also known as Coll de Núria) at 8,806 feet for even more spectacular vistas of the surrounding peaks. (This pass is a critical bird migration corridor in the Pyrénées, so depending on the time of year, keep your eyes open.) After taking it all in, descend into France’s Eyne Valley, nicknamed ―Valley of Flowers‖ thanks to a remarkable ecological diversity. From the town of Eyne, we shuttle through beautiful scenery—rural countryside, mountain villages, herds of cows and sheep, and farmers plying their trade—to our accommodation in Bolvir de Cerdanya.

Settle into stunning Torre del Remei, a Relais & Châteaux member-hotel and our home for the next two nights, before we reunite for a tasting of Catalan wines—both dry white varietals and robust reds—all nurtured by the mild Mediterranean climate. Our appetites whetted, we sit down to an exceptional dinner at the hotel.

Lodging: Torre del Remei

Day 4

Twelve Lakes Loop 6.1 Miles (1,100-foot elevation gain)
Shorter Option: Nine Lakes 4.1 Miles (820-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Carlit Peak 8.2 Miles (2,380-foot elevation gain)

You can look forward to spending the day exploring the stunning French Pyrénées. We shuttle about 20 minutes to the trailhead. Upon arrival, lace up your boots, grab your layers and packed lunch, and begin the trek to Lac des Bouillouses (in French) or Llac de la Bollosa (in Spanish)—however you say it, it’s sure to get your heart pounding. In fact, the area’s nickname, ―The French Siberia,‖ might in and of itself make your heart skip a beat. Like its Russian counterpart, this landscape is dotted with lakes, has huge pine forests and enjoys cool temperatures. Marmots and isards are likely to make an appearance, and possibly a bearded vulture or black woodpecker. As you gain elevation, juniper bushes, rhododendrons and mountain pines make way for alpine grasses and vibrant flowers, including gentians and saffron crocuses. Continue to the lakes around Mount Carlit. You’ll want to have your camera ready to capture the amazing views of the plateau amid a sea of granite peaks. This is one of the most beautiful spots in all of the Pyrénées.

If you’re feeling ambitious and you’re an experienced alpine hiker, tackle the steep trail to Mount Carlit (at 9,583 feet), the highest peak of the Oriental Pyrénées. Your efforts are rewarded with an unbelievable 360-degree panorama. To the south is Bolvir de Cerdanya, where we came from this morning, set in the flat-bottomed Cerdanya Valley, once home to a glacial lake. At the end of the hike, hop in the van for the short ride to the hotel.

Back at Torre del Remei this evening, relish the hotel’s amenities before we shuttle to a nearby mountain village for a meal of authentic Pyrénées cuisine.

Lodging: Torre del Remei

Day 5

Shuttle to Estana 40 Minutes
Prat de Cadí Route 4.7 Miles (2,310-foot elevation gain)
Longer Option: Canal de Cristal 6.6 Miles (3,920-foot elevation gain)
Shuttle to La Seu d’Urgell 40 Minutes

Over the next two days we get to know Cadí-Moixeró Nature Park, one of Catalonia’s largest parks, with breathtaking limestone cliffs, abundant pine trees and verdant meadows. It boasts a rich collection of hiking paths, which wind through dense woods and flowering pastures, and offer incredible views. It’s easy to see why nature lovers flock here for mountain biking, hiking, bird-watching and canyoneering. After reaching the mountain town of Estana, strike out on a hike that’s one of the trip’s most scenic—and that’s saying a lot considering the amazing landscapes we’ve already seen! From the Coll de Palliers (coll is Spanish for ―pass‖), follow a path lined with thriving alpine plants to the Collet Roig. Here you’ll want to pause for a moment to take in far-reaching views of the Cadí Valley and the spectacular Baridana Canal (canal is the word for ―gorge‖). A gentle stretch of trail then leads you into a wide and breathataking emerald-green meadow that feels on top of the world. This heavenly place is the Prat de Cadí, dominated by the impressive limestone crags of the Roc de l’Ordiguer, one of the Cadí-Moixeró Nature Reserve’s highest peaks. Jaw-dropping vistas of the gorges of Ordiguer, Estana, and Cristall—which you can see up close if you take on the longer option—surround you as clouds move quickly past. After drinking in the scenery, return to Estana to shuttle to our last hotel of the trip. On the way we visit an old fábrica de llanes (wool factory), getting a glimpse at one of the region’s most practiced traditions.

El Castell de Ciutat, a Relais & Châteaux castle located in La Seu d’Urgell, the gateway to Andorra, welcomes us. After your day’s hiking feats, you’ve undoubtedly earned time at the spa (not included in the trip price) or by the pool. We’re in store for a splendid farewell meal—signature cuisine from the Tàpies’ gourmet kitchen.

Lodging: El Castell de Ciutat

Day 6

Shuttle to Ansovel 30 Minutes
Cava & Arsèguel Route 7.1 Miles (1,970-foot elevation gain; 3,780-foot elevation loss)
Shuttle to Barcelona 2½ Hours

Upon arriving in the village of Ansovel this morning, soak up the view of the Cadí Mountains and of Cava, the gorgeous town across the valley where we’ll have lunch today. Then set off on a quiet lane alongside an old wall and make your way to lovely Boscalt Sanctuary. Watch for rocks and roots in your path as you climb to Cava.

After our gourmet picnic and a chance to explore town, we venture to Arsèguel, a typical Pyrénées mountain village with attractive wooden balconies and Arabic tiled roofs. Discover its well-preserved medieval old town, and imagine the streets filled with accordion players. Each year since 1976, Arsèguel has hosted the famous folk music festival, Trobada amb els Acordionistes del Pirineu (Gathering of the Accordion Players of the Pyrénées), earning it the nickname, ―Accordion Capital.‖ If you want to learn more about this tradition, visit the accordion museum.

Later we hop aboard our shuttle bound for Barcelona. We pass through the Cadí tunnel, Barcelona’s gateway to the mountainous ski region of Cerdanya, and watch the landscapes evolve from alpine to Mediterranean. Arriving at Barcelona’s França train station, we say our goodbyes.